Landscape Lighting

Landscape lighting works as a system, and this category stocks the path, spot, and well lights to build one, in stock and ready to ship with free shipping on every order. Transformer sizing and wire gauge guidance below the products keeps the far end of every run bright.

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Landscape Lighting Planning Guide

Landscape Lighting You Can Plan Like a System, Not a Cart

Most landscape lighting pages sell fixtures one at a time and leave the math to you. A low voltage system lives or dies on that math: an undersized transformer trips, an undersized wire run leaves the far fixtures dim and orange. This page gives you the sizing numbers up front so the kit you build actually works, and since every product page shows live stock status, in-stock items ship within 24 hours, and shipping is free on every order, the whole system can be on site before the trencher shows up.

Transformer Sizing in Two Steps

Add up the wattage of every fixture on the system, then add 25 percent headroom for future fixtures and voltage stability. Example: 12 path lights at 4W each (48W) plus 6 spot lights at 6W each (36W) totals 84W; with headroom you are at 105W, so a 150W transformer is the right unit. As a general rule, keep a transformer loaded between one third and 80 percent of its rating: enough load to run efficiently, enough margin to add a zone next season.

Wire Gauge and Run Length

Voltage drop is the silent killer of 12V landscape lighting systems. Use this planning table for a single home run, keeping drop to about 1.5V so LED fixtures stay in their happy range:

Wire GaugeMax One-Way Run at 60W LoadMax One-Way Run at 100W Load
16 AWGAbout 55 ftAbout 30 ft
14 AWGAbout 85 ftAbout 50 ft
12 AWGAbout 185 ftAbout 110 ft
10 AWGAbout 295 ftAbout 175 ft

The underlying formula: voltage drop equals total watts on the run times one-way length in feet, divided by the cable constant (2,200 for 16 AWG, 3,500 for 14 AWG, 7,500 for 12 AWG, 11,920 for 10 AWG). Twelve gauge is the default for most residential runs. On long or heavily loaded runs, split fixtures across multiple home runs from the transformer rather than daisy-chaining everything on one line, and verify voltage at the farthest fixture with a meter at startup.

Build the System by Fixture Role

Landscape spot lights throw a tight beam up into trees and onto facades. Landscape path lights put soft downlight on walkways and drive edges without glare. LED well lights bury flush in grade for uplighting where a stake fixture would get hit by the mower. Landscape flood lights wash wider areas like turf, signage, and long fence lines. Transformers, low voltage wire, and connectors live in landscape lighting accessories, so the whole bill of materials comes from one order.

A workable starter layout for a typical front yard: 6 to 8 path lights along the walk, 2 to 4 spots on the facade or a specimen tree, and one well light at the entry, fed by a 150W transformer on two runs. Warm white in the 2700K to 3000K range reads as inviting on residential landscapes; save 4000K and up for commercial garden lights and security-oriented outdoor lighting.

Ordering for an Install Date

Live inventory on each product page means you know before checkout that the transformer, wire, and every fixture can arrive together. In-stock items ship within 24 hours with free shipping and no minimums, so adding two more landscape lights after walking the property costs nothing extra in freight. Planning a larger job? Run the layout past our lighting team through the QuickShipLights support portal before you order.

For the areas nearest the house, finish the perimeter with patio and porch lights, or browse the rest of residential lighting.

Frequently Asked Questions About Landscape Lighting

Total the fixture wattage, add 25 percent, and round up to the next standard transformer size. Keep the final load under 80 percent of the transformer rating. Running a transformer near its limit shortens its life and leaves no room for the extra fixture or two that most landscape projects eventually grow into.

Yes. Any 12V fixtures can share a transformer as long as total wattage fits and each run stays inside the gauge and length limits above. Use separate runs for zones you want to control independently, such as front walk path lights on one schedule and backyard accent lighting on another.

Low voltage (12V) is the residential default: safer to bury, cheaper to trench, and easy to modify as plantings grow. Line voltage makes sense for large commercial properties with long distances and bigger flood loads. For a typical home, low voltage landscape lighting does everything needed at a fraction of the installation cost.

2700K to 3000K for homes; it flatters stone, wood, and plantings, while cooler CCTs look commercial and can flatten green foliage. Keep the whole property consistent, since one 5000K flood in a warm design stands out immediately. Moonlighting effects cast down from trees are the one place designers sometimes go slightly cooler on purpose.

Low voltage direct burial cable only needs about 6 in of cover, and in planting beds it can run just under the mulch. Keep runs clear of bed edges, aeration paths, and anywhere a shovel routinely lands. Line voltage circuits are a different story entirely, with code driven trench depths, which is another reason 12V is the residential default.

The transformer handles it. Most models accept a photocell for dusk to dawn operation, a timer, or both together, so the system comes on at dark and shuts off at a set hour. Astronomic timers adjust for sunset drifting through the seasons on their own. Set it once and the lighting runs itself.