120V LED Puck Lights

120V LED puck lights hardwire to a junction box or plug into a cabinet outlet with no transformer and no driver, and they ship free on every order. The guidance below the products covers dimmer compatibility and daisy chain wiring for full cabinet runs.

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120V LED Puck Light Selection Guide

Dimmer Compatibility for a 120V LED Puck Light

Line voltage is what makes puck dimming simple: a standard LED-rated wall dimmer controls the whole run with no transformer in the middle to complicate compatibility. TRIAC (forward phase) dimmers handle most 120V LED puck light models; ELV (reverse phase) dimmers dim more smoothly at the bottom of the range for display work. Two checks prevent callbacks. First, confirm the puck is marked dimmable, since non-dimmable models flicker on any dimmer. Second, check the dimmer's minimum load: a run of pucks at 3 to 5W each may total under a low-end spec, so choose an LED-rated dimmer specced for low wattage loads.

Daisy Chain Wiring and Layout

Most 120V puck light systems are linkable: one junction box or outlet feeds the first puck, and short interconnect cords daisy chain the rest along the cabinet run. That single-feed layout is what makes pucks a fast retrofit over old halogen units, which they replace while cutting the load from about 20W per puck to 3 to 5W and removing the heat that halogen pumped into enclosed cabinetry. For even counter light, space pucks 18 to 24 inches apart, centered toward the cabinet front edge so light lands on the work surface rather than the backsplash. Recessed models mount flush into a drilled opening; surface mount models screw directly to the cabinet bottom. Warm 2700K and 3000K options suit kitchens and display casework, and 90 plus CRI versions keep merchandise and countertops true to color.

If your project already runs a low voltage transformer, the 12V LED Puck Lights category is the matching format, and the full range of both voltages lives under Puck Lights. For continuous linear light instead of pools of accent light, LED Tape Light is the alternative worth comparing, and complete linear fixtures are under Undercabinet Light Fixtures. Everything for the cabinet run, including accessories, is in Undercabinet Lighting, with stock status and lead times listed on each product page.

LED Puck Lights at 120V: Skip the Transformer

Search for led puck lights and the results bury you in battery-powered stick-on discs. Those are a different product for a different buyer. This category is 120V line voltage puck lighting: fixtures that hardwire to a junction box or plug into a cabinet outlet, run on house power with no transformer and no driver, and stay at full brightness for as long as the switch is on. It is the format remodelers and electricians reach for because it wires like any other fixture on the job.

Which Voltage Class Fits the Project

120V Line Voltage12V/24V Low VoltageBattery
Typical output150 to 300 lm per puck150 to 350 lm per puck30 to 100 lm
DimmingWall dimmer (TRIAC or ELV)Via compatible transformerNone or stepped only
InstallationJunction box or plug-in cordTransformer plus low voltage wiringStick-on, no wiring
Service lifeLED rated to 50,000 hoursLED rated to 50,000 hoursLimited by battery changes
Best forKitchens, remodels, display cabinets on switched circuitsSystems already running a transformerRentals, closets, temporary spots

Frequently Asked Questions About 120V LED Puck Lights

No. That is the defining advantage of the 120V format: the pucks connect directly to standard house voltage, either hardwired to a junction box or plugged into an outlet, with no transformer or remote driver anywhere in the system. It installs like any other line voltage fixture, which is why electricians and remodelers favor 120V pucks when there is no existing low voltage system to extend.

Hardwiring to a switched junction box gives the cleanest result: no visible cord, control from a wall switch or dimmer, and a permanent finished installation, which suits kitchen remodels. Plug-in cords win for speed and for renters, using an outlet inside or below the cabinet with an inline switch. Many 120V puck kits support both methods, so the choice can be made at install time.

Models marked dimmable work with standard LED-rated wall dimmers, with TRIAC (forward phase) compatibility being the common case and ELV dimmers giving smoother low-end performance. Verify two things before ordering: that the specific puck is listed as dimmable, and that your dimmer's minimum load rating suits a small LED load, since a full run of pucks may total under 25W.

Electrically, the load is trivial: at 3 to 5W per puck, even a long run of a dozen pucks draws under 60W on a 120V circuit. The practical limits are the manufacturer's maximum linkable count for the interconnect system and, when dimming, the dimmer's minimum and maximum load ratings. Check the product's stated daisy chain limit and stay within it for warranty and listing compliance.

Space pucks 18 to 24 inches apart for even pools of light that blend on the countertop, and position them toward the front edge of the cabinet so the light lands on the work surface instead of the backsplash. Center a puck over key task zones like the sink and prep areas first, then fill the remaining run at even intervals. Closer spacing suits display cabinets.

Recessed pucks sit flush in a drilled opening for a built-in look and are the choice for glass-front display cabinets and visible undercabinet runs. They need enough cabinet material depth for the housing. Surface mount pucks screw to the cabinet bottom with no drilling, install faster, and are easier to reposition, which makes them the default for retrofits and rental-friendly projects.

Substantially. A typical 120V LED puck delivers 150 to 300 lumens continuously, while battery pucks usually manage 30 to 100 lumens and dim as the batteries drain. Battery units suit closets and temporary spots, but for kitchen task lighting or display cabinets that stay lit for hours, hardwired 120V pucks provide consistent full brightness with no battery maintenance at all.

Not meaningfully. An LED puck drawing 3 to 5W produces a small fraction of the heat of the 20W halogen pucks it replaces, which were notorious for warming cabinet contents and darkening the wood above them. LED pucks run warm to the touch at most, making them safe for enclosed cabinetry, pantry shelves, and display cases holding heat-sensitive items.