Puck Lights

Puck lights in hardwired, plug-in, and 12V formats for undercabinet and display lighting, in stock and ready to ship with free shipping on every order. The comparison below the products settles the power-source decision first, then covers spacing for even undercabinet layouts.

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Puck Light Selection Guide

Puck Lights: Pick the Power Source, Then the Puck

Every puck light decision starts with the same fork: hardwired, plug-in, or low-voltage system. Get that right and the rest is finish and beam preference; get it wrong and you are returning fixtures. The comparison below settles it before you browse. Product pages show live stock availability, in-stock orders ship within 24 hours, and shipping is free on every order with no minimums.

Hardwired, Plug-In, or 12V System: Which Puck Light Fits?

Power TypeHow It InstallsBest ForTrade-Offs
120V hardwiredWires to a switched circuit, no visible cordsKitchen remodels, new construction, permanent display casesNeeds an electrician or existing box; cleanest result
120V plug-inPlugs into an outlet, often with inline switchRetrofits, rentals, shelving, entertainment centersCord management under the cabinet run
12V low-voltageRuns off a transformer shared with other 12V fixturesWhole-kitchen undercabinet systems, integrated designsRequires transformer sizing; easiest to dim as one zone
Battery pucks (tap lights)Stick-on, tap to operateClosets and temporary spots with no wiring at allDim output and constant battery swaps; a stopgap, not a spec

Individual LED puck lights typically draw just 1W to 5W each, so even a long cabinet run adds trivial load. Many are sold in sets of three to six with connecting cords included, and dimming support is listed per product for anyone putting the kitchen run on a wall dimmer.

Puck Light Spacing: The Numbers That Make It Look Professional

Layout is what separates a designer-looking installation from a scalloped mess, and it takes only three rules:

  • Space pucks 8 to 12 inches apart for even task light across a counter; stretch to 18 to 24 inches when you want deliberate pools of accent light instead.
  • Mount pucks 2 to 3 inches back from the cabinet's front edge so light lands on the working half of the counter, not against the backsplash.
  • Plan roughly one puck per cabinet door width, then adjust at seams so no puck straddles a cabinet joint.

Inside glass-front cabinets and display cases, one puck per shelf section centered over the displayed items is the standard approach. Choose 2700K to 3000K to warm wood tones and dishware, or 3500K to 4000K for a cleaner retail-style presentation.

Puck or Tape: a Quick Gut Check

Pucks produce defined circles of light and install one point at a time; linear sources produce one continuous band. If you want an unbroken line of light along the whole counter, an undercabinet bar fixture or LED tape light run does that job better. The full assortment, including accessories, transformers, and connecting cords, lives under Undercabinet Lighting.

Planning a Whole Kitchen or a Display Wall?

A lighting specialist can sketch the puck count, spacing, and transformer sizing from your cabinet dimensions, and confirm live stock for the full set: call 855-775-4533 or open a ticket at the QuickShipLights support portal.

Frequently Asked Questions About Puck Lights

Space pucks 8 to 12 inches apart for even, continuous task light on the counter. Widen to 18 to 24 inches if you prefer distinct pools of accent light. Keep each puck 2 to 3 inches back from the cabinet's front edge so the light falls on the work surface instead of the backsplash, and avoid placing a puck across a cabinet seam.

Hardwired 120V pucks give the cleanest permanent result, switch from the wall, and suit remodels where an electrician is already on site. Plug-in pucks install in minutes and are the practical answer for retrofits, rentals, and shelving. Light output is comparable; the difference is installation effort and cord visibility.

120V pucks connect directly to line voltage, either hardwired or plugged in. 12V pucks run off a transformer, which lets a whole kitchen of undercabinet fixtures operate as one integrated, easily dimmed system. Choose 12V when building a full low-voltage layout, and 120V when adding pucks to a space without a transformer system.

Generally no. Battery tap lights are convenient for closets and spots with no wiring, but their output is modest and drops as batteries drain, and frequent battery swaps get old fast under a busy counter. For kitchen task lighting, wired 120V or 12V pucks deliver consistent output and switch control that battery units cannot match.

Typical LED pucks draw 1W to 5W each and produce a focused pool of light suited to accent and near-task use. That low draw means even a dozen pucks add negligible load to a circuit. For full-brightness task lighting across a long counter, compare total output against a linear undercabinet fixture before deciding format.

Many can, but the method depends on the power type. 12V systems dim at the transformer or with a compatible low-voltage dimmer and behave as one smooth zone. 120V hardwired pucks dim from a wall dimmer when the product supports it. Check the product page for the supported dimming type before pairing with a control.

2700K to 3000K flatters wood cabinetry and reads warm and residential, which suits most kitchens. 3500K to 4000K appears whiter and crisper, closer to retail display lighting, and works well in modern kitchens and glass display cases. Match the pucks to the room's other lighting so the counter does not clash with the ceiling layer.