LED Drivers

LED drivers for tape light runs and for replacing failed drivers inside existing fixtures, in constant current and constant voltage models with free shipping on every order. The selection walkthrough below the products covers output type, wattage sizing with the 20 percent rule, and dimmer compatibility.

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LED Driver Selection Guide

LED Drivers: The Selection Guide and the Hardware on One Page

An LED driver is easy to buy and easy to buy wrong, and the usual resources make you choose between a guide that sells nothing and a store that explains nothing. This page does both jobs: it walks the three decisions that matter, output type, wattage, and dimming, with the buyable hardware directly below. These drivers power LED tape light runs, and they also replace failed drivers inside existing fixtures. Both use cases are covered here.

Constant Voltage or Constant Current: The First Decision

A constant voltage LED driver power supply holds a fixed output, most commonly 12V or 24V DC, while the connected load draws whatever current it needs. A constant current led driver does the opposite, holding a fixed current such as 350mA, 700mA, or 1050mA while voltage varies. The two are not interchangeable, so sort yourself with this decision tree:

  • Powering LED tape, strip modules, or anything labeled with a 12V or 24V input: constant voltage, matched to that voltage exactly.
  • Replacing the driver in a downlight, panel, or fixture whose label lists output in milliamps: constant current, matched to the listed mA and within the listed voltage window.
  • Label lists both a voltage range and a current: it is a constant current driver; the voltage range describes the window the current is held across.

Sizing Output Wattage: The 20 Percent Rule, Worked Through

Driver wattage must exceed the connected load with headroom, not merely match it. Take a 25 foot run of 24V tape rated at 3 watts per foot. The load is 75 watts. Multiply by 1.2 and the minimum driver is 90 watts, so a 96W or 100W 24V driver is the right buy. Running a driver at 100 percent of rating shortens its life and invites thermal shutdown inside warm channels and ceilings; the 20 percent margin costs little and prevents both. On long tape runs, also respect the maximum run length on the tape's product page and feed long rows from both ends, or split the row across two drivers, to control voltage drop.

LED Driver Replacement for Existing Fixtures

When a fixture goes dark or flickers and the lamps check out, the driver is the usual suspect. Pull the failed unit and match the replacement off its label: output type first, then output voltage or current, then a wattage rating equal to or greater than the original, then the dimming protocol, and finally the physical case size so it fits the fixture's driver compartment. Enclosure matters too: open frame drivers belong inside fixture housings, while enclosed and potted drivers handle junction box and damp environment installs. If the label is unreadable, the fixture's spec sheet is the fallback source for driver requirements.

Everything the Driver Powers, One Category Over

Pair your driver with 12V LED Tape or 24V LED Tape, finish the run with channels and connectors from Tape Light Accessories, or step up to hardwired LED Strip Lights where a fixture beats a ribbon. Every product page shows live stock status, shipping is free on every order, and our lighting team can check a driver match through the QuickShipLights support portal before you commit.

Dimmable LED Drivers and Control Compatibility

A dimmable LED driver only dims correctly when the driver and the control speak the same protocol. "Dimmable" on a box is not enough; match the row below to the control system on the job before ordering.

ProtocolHow It DimsTypical SettingWatch For
TRIAC (forward phase)Chops the AC waveform on the line sideResidential wall dimmersSmall LED loads may sit below the dimmer's minimum load; check both spec sheets
ELV (reverse phase)Electronic low voltage phase controlResidential and light commercialSmoother low end than forward phase; most ELV dimmers need a neutral at the switch
0-10VLow voltage control pair on the DC sideOffices and commercial spacesRequires two extra control conductors to each driver
DALIDigital addressable protocolNetworked commercial buildingsNeeds a DALI controller; each driver is individually addressable

Frequently Asked Questions About LED Drivers

A constant voltage driver holds a fixed output, usually 12V or 24V, and the load draws the current it needs; it is the standard for LED tape and strip modules. A constant current driver holds a fixed current, such as 700mA, while voltage varies; it is used inside downlights, panels, and other fixtures. Match the type the load specifies, they are not interchangeable.

With constant voltage, yes, and it is good practice: the load only draws what it needs, so a 100W driver on a 75W tape run just runs cooler and lasts longer. With constant current, no. A constant current driver pushes its rated current through the load regardless, so it must match the fixture's specified current exactly.

The usual cause is a protocol mismatch: a forward phase wall dimmer driving an ELV rated driver, or a load too small to meet the dimmer's minimum. Check that the driver's listed dimming protocol matches the control, and check the dimmer's minimum load against your actual tape wattage. Swapping to a dimmer the driver manufacturer lists as compatible resolves most flicker complaints.

A Class 2 driver limits its output power and voltage to levels the National Electrical Code treats as low risk for fire and shock, which relaxes the wiring methods allowed on the output side. Most tape light drivers are Class 2. The tradeoff is a cap on output wattage per circuit, which is why large tape systems often use several Class 2 drivers rather than one big supply.

Yes, if the runs share the same voltage and the combined wattage stays within the driver's rating with about 20 percent headroom. Wire the runs in parallel from the driver output, not daisy chained end to end past the tape's maximum run length. Keep each home run reasonably short to limit voltage drop, and fuse or protect outputs where the driver maker calls for it.

Read the label on the failed driver. Match five things in order: output type (constant current or constant voltage), output voltage or current rating, wattage equal or greater, dimming protocol, and case dimensions so it physically fits. If the label is burned or unreadable, the fixture's spec sheet lists the driver requirements, and our support team can help confirm a cross reference.

Only if rated for it. Open frame drivers must live inside a dry fixture or enclosure. Enclosed metal case drivers handle general indoor junction box use. For damp or wet locations, choose a driver with an appropriate IP rating, IP65 or higher for exposed outdoor and washdown areas, and check the listing on the product page rather than assuming a sealed look means a sealed rating.